Hints & Tips
The
Corvette C5-R has been constantly evolving since the first prototypes appeared
in 1998. The 2001 configuration will go down in history as the class winner of
both the Daytona and LeMans twenty-four races and one of the last racecars
driven by Dale Earnhardt. The model contained in the Revell kit identified, as
the Corvette C5-R 2000 LeMans race is actually the 1999 racecar. This is very
evident when comparing the built up model on the side of the box with the
picture of the real car on top. There
is one aspect of the more recent C5-Rs that I will not attempt to update on the
model and that is the increased width. Approximately 1.5 mm would have to be
added on each side to end up with correct scale dimensions. In my opinion that
would be pretty difficult to detect without callipers. There have been many very
good articles on Corvette C5-R’s appearing in various publications but one of
the best to refer to when making these modifications is the June 2001 issue of
Road & Track. It is now possible to build every version of the C5-R as there
are aftermarket decals available through www.islandcollectibles.net
that feature all the different liveries.
1-
The roof of the 2001 C5-R contains no vents. Therefore the two vents on
the top of the roof must be cut out and filled with Evergreen styrene. I have
not been able to determine where the air now comes from for the transmission
cooler so I plan to leave the internal ductwork off until I find out. The vents
on the B-pillars can simply be filled with small strips of plastic.
2-
The first step in fabricating the later style hot air extractor is to
scribe open the fifth louver on the centre of the hood including the spine in
the middle. Next make longitudinal cuts along the edges of the top three
louvers. The centre spine on the top three louvers should be filed off and the
louver grooves lightly scribed top and bottom to help them bend. Gently shape
the plastic down into the body. Strips of 1.5-mm half rounds of Evergreen
styrene are then glued with plastic cement into the grooves. Strips can also be
glued to the underside grooves for extra strength. Just to be on the safe side a
coat of gap filing cyanoacrylate adhesive can be applied over the surface of the
filled louvers. This will achieve the approximate shape. The gaps on each side
of the slope can be filled with small triangular pieces of styrene. Filing and
puttying will be required to get the desired look.
3-
To heighten realism even on the 1999 car it is appropriate to open up the
vent louvers. Use the back point of a hobby knife to open the five louvers
behind each headlight and the first five louvers on the centre of the hood.
4-
We now move to the front of the end of the model. This is a good time to
open up both of the upper vents inboard of the turn signals. Upon final
assembly, these open vents can be partially filled with wire mesh. The clear
turn light lenses in stock Corvette kits are of a slightly different shape but
with a little bit of work can utilised. This is also the case with the reverse
lights. Note that rear fender
indicator lights are not used on the 2001 C5-Rs.
5-
If you choose you can also remove the licence plate cover so centre-driving
lights can be installed. Use couple of headlights from your parts box in a panel
made from pieces of flat styrene. For greater impact, add a drop of amber to
simulate the lightbulbs. The light cover can be cut from a thin piece of clear
plastic and installed behind a frame cut from sheet plastic.
6-
Make vertical cuts at the ends of each of the lower open vents. Next make
a horizontal cut to remove the bodywork between the centre opening and the
vertical cuts. Trace the shape of the leading edge of the nose onto a sheet of
styrene to be used later.
7-
It is now time to make a new front splitter which will be attached to the
body. On a 1-mm sheet of Evergreen styrene trace out the shape of the kit
splitter on the belly pan using the front edge of the wheel opening as a
starting point. Next draw a box around the traced shape. From 2000, the C5-R
splitter was much more angular than the original. It starts off leading straight
ahead from the wheelwells then angles slightly inward to meet the gentle radius
across the front. The area occupied by the new splitter must be cut away from
the belly pan. To figure out where to cut, place the body on the belly pan and
mark where the vertical cuts on the body meet the locating shoulders on the
bellypan. From this point, draw lines to the back end of the locating recesses
for the radiator and then straight across to link both sides. Also draw lines
behind the locating shoulder back to the wheelwell. Once this area is cut away,
it can be used to draw the final line to cut out the new splitter. Add a couple
of tabs on the upper trailing edge of the splitter to aid the final mounting of
the completed body.
8-
Using the previously made template, shape a piece of flat plastic to fill
the horizontal gap under the leading edge of the nose leaving room for the
radiator.
9-
Glue the new splitter to the body.
10-
Shape and install vertical pieces of sheet styrene in the space between
the splitter and the leading edge of the nose, leaving an opening in the centre
for the radiator intake which can eventually be covered with either wire mesh or
part #86 with a little trimming.
11-
The leading edge of the radiator housing will need to be trimmed to fit
with the cut away bellypan and revised front end. The brackets at the front ends
of the side roll cage assemblies will also require shortening.
12-
The last bit of bodywork is perhaps the most difficult. That is the
cutting in of the four NACA scopes indicated by the locations for decals #47.
Try a combination of hobby knife scribing, moto-tool grinding, Evergreen
styrene, putty and filing.
13-
One last detail that needs to changed for the 2001 version is that the
single windshield wiper is no longer centrally mounted but is located in front
of the driver.
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Page updated 10/20/01